Serves 4
After more than a quarter century of experimentation, I’ve finally cracked the code to making the juiciest, tastiest, most cohesive meatloaf I have ever experienced since becoming vegetarian more than fifty years ago. Two modifications took my plant-based meatloaf from mediocre at best to sublime: Number one, hail the humble oat and don’t skimp on the spices. Number two, loaf pans may be traditional, but crust equals flavor and texture, and you get way more of both if you form your loaf on a shallow pan or tray that leaves plenty of space around the sides, so every surface can brown and crisp.
Even vegetarians wax nostalgic for the familiar comforts of their childhood, and my mother’s meatloaf, glazed with ketchup and served up with mashed potatoes and canned Baby Le Sueur peas, is still the gold standard for me. It wasn’t difficult to mimic the flavors, but texture was my nemesis. Even with the advent of much better meat analogues like Impossible and Beyond, without an egg to bind it and the high fat content of ground beef for richness and umami, my versions always fell short, a little dry and crumbly, and leftovers were even more disappointing.
Once I recognized the power of oats to bind and juicify, and the importance of uber seasoning for umami, the beautiful logic of meatloaf was revealed. In this formula, amounts can be approximated with handfuls and dollops, but I have provided standard measurements as a guide. If you measure a ¼ cup of oats or a tablespoon full of spice into your palm, you will get to recognize the volume of a handful or a pinch, and eventually you can trust your instincts instead of having to always measure precisely.
I used the seasonings I have, but if you don’t have them all in your pantry, love the ones you’re with. Tamari is the salty source, and you can substitute with soy sauce or salt. Worcestershire sauce usually has anchovies, so if it matters to you, look for a vegan version; if you don’t have it, double the tamari. Liquid smoke is pretty benign and brings great umami when added in tiny amounts—if you don’t already stock it in your pantry, it’s a good flavor addition. Barbecue sauce is a great all-purpose shortcut that combines the flavors of ketchup, vinegar, brown sugar and more, but you can use those ingredients—or just straight ketchup—to make your own glaze if that suits you.
1 package Impossible or Beyond (12-16 oz.)
¼ C. panko bread crumbs
¼ C. rolled (Old Fashioned) oats
1 tsp. smoked paprika
1 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. onion powder
1 tsp. garlic powder
½ medium onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tsp. liquid smoke
1 T. tamari sauce
2 T. barbecue sauce
1 T. Worcestershire sauce
½ C. Barbecue sauce for glazing, divided
Directions: Preheat oven to 375 degrees, oil a small metal baking pan or rimmed baking sheet.
- Combine all ingredients except sauce for glaze in a medium bowl. Mix very well, using hands if possible to thoroughly combine (squish) all ingredients until everything is a homogenous mess. If you have time, you can do this earlier in the day and chill until ready to bake, giving the flavors extra time to marry.
- Scoop mixture into baking pan and mold into a shallow loaf shape, about an inch to an inch-and-a-half high, leaving room all around the sides so a nice crust can form on all the exposed surfaces. Crust equals flavor and texture.
- Pour a few dollops of barbecue sauce on top and spread evenly to cover top and sides of loaf, as if icing a cake. If you have an offset spatula, now is the time to use it! Otherwise, a butter knife or even a pastry brush will do.
- Bake at 375 degrees for 30 minutes and check glaze. If it has formed a crust and is no longer very tacky, remove from oven and apply a second coat of sauce. Turn oven up to 400 degrees and bake for an additional 15-20 minutes, or until a nice crust has formed. Take care not to burn.
- Carve into one-inch slices and serve with your favorite sides. If you are lucky enough to have leftovers, they heat up well in the toaster oven.